Ask five suppliers for “a hoodie quote” and you get five numbers that mean nothing until one spec is fixed: GSM, the grams per square metre of the fleece. That single figure sets most of the cost (a hoodie carries 0.6–0.8 kg of fabric), the warmth, and whether the finished garment feels budget or premium in the hand. We knit the stuff, so this is the map we use ourselves. (Tees have their own guide: GSM explained for t-shirts and polos.)
The weight bands, minus the marketing
| GSM | Trade label | What it’s for |
|---|---|---|
| 250–300 | Light / budget | Promo hoodies, warm-climate markets, price-point programmes, the mass-catalogue zone |
| 300–350 | Standard | The retail workhorse: everyday hoodies with real substance; 320 gsm is a safe default |
| 350–450 | Heavyweight | Premium basics and streetwear, structure, drape, and the “this is quality” first touch |
| 450+ | Ultra-heavy | Statement fleece for cold climates and limited drops |
Two cautions from the factory side. First, “heavyweight” has no fixed threshold — one brand’s heavyweight is 350, another’s is 400+ — so compare quotes at the same number, never the same adjective. Second, GSM is measured on the fabric, and brushing slightly lofts it: a 320 gsm brushed fleece and a 320 gsm loopback terry weigh the same but feel completely different.
Brushed or loopback at your chosen weight
At every GSM you choose a back: brushed fleece (loops napped into soft pile, warmer, cosier, the classic hoodie) or loopback French terry (loops intact, more breathable, more structured, holds shape at the elbows). Cold-market winter programmes want brushed; three-season premium ranges increasingly spec loopback. The full terry-vs-fleece guide.
What GSM does to your cost
Fabric is the dominant cost line in fleece, so weight moves price almost linearly: going from 320 to 400 gsm is roughly 25% more fibre in the garment. That’s why the same silhouette quotes at $6.50 or $9.00 ex-factory, the difference is mostly grams. The full hoodie cost breakdown shows the maths line by line.
Ordering guidance by buyer type
- Promo and uniform programmes: 280–320 gsm poly-cotton, durable, budget-fit, embroidery-stable.
- Retail brands: 320–350 gsm, 80/20 or 100% cotton face, compacted for shrink control.
- Streetwear and premium merch: 400–450 gsm, 3-thread construction for a clean print face, boxy blocks.
- Kidswear: 280–320 gsm with softness prioritised, and all cord rules designed in.
We knit and sew fleece from 250 to 450+ gsm to your spec — see the range or send your target weight and quantity for a landed quote.