Nearly every knit tee, polo, and base layer is built on one of three constructions, and that choice fixes the garment’s weight, drape, stability, print surface, and price before any design work begins. What follows is the buyer’s version, including the quirks each construction brings and how a competent factory manages them.
| Single jersey | Interlock | Piqué | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Structure | One layer | Double-knit, two locked layers | Tuck-stitch texture |
| Faces | Smooth front, looped back | Smooth both sides | Waffle face |
| Typical GSM | 140–200 | 180–240 | 180–240 |
| Character | Light, drapey, economical | Stable, substantial, premium | Breathable, structured, uniform-grade |
| Prints | Very well (flat face) | Very well | Bold designs only, texture breaks fine detail |
| Embroidery | Needs stabilising | Excellent | Excellent, texture hides needlework |
| Quirks | Edge curl, spirality | Heavier, costlier | Costs more than jersey |
What each is actually for
- <strong>Single jersey</strong> is the t-shirt: the best drape-to-cost ratio in knitwear. Its edge-curl is handled in cutting; its twist risk is a mill-control issue you spec, not luck.
- <strong>Interlock</strong> is the premium option: smooth on both faces, opaque at lighter weights, dimensionally stable, the choice for premium polos, kids’ basics, and garments that must hold shape through industrial washing.
- <strong>Piqué</strong> is the polo: breathable texture, embroidery-friendly, professional. <a href="/blog/polo-shirt-buyers-guide-pique-collar-quality/">The full polo guide covers it in depth.</a>
The spec lines that prevent surprises
Whatever construction you choose, three lines in the tech pack prevent 90% of knit problems: GSM with a tolerance (±5%), shrinkage limit after wash (±5% or better, on compacted fabric), and spirality limit for single jersey. Then wash the sample before approving it — here’s the full approval checklist.
We knit all three constructions in-house programmes from 1,000 pieces per style — tell us the product and we’ll recommend the construction with reasons, not just a price.